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Vinnybyrne.com is your on-line resource for paints, coatings, consumables, tools and equipment. You can shop on-line at great value prices, browse our product catalogue, pick up useful hints and tips and get valuable information on our specialist services for. A Jig to Sharpen Threading Tools And Other Lathe Bits Too Last Modified: 21 April 2015 09:11 MST Sharpening bits freehand for thread cutting on the lathe is always time consuming because of the frequent checks needed to get the angles correct. Toledo 321025 D-Sub Deutsch 4-way Indent Crimper AWG 20-12 Toledo 321025 D-Sub Deutsch 4-way Indent Crimper AWG 20-12 MM2 0.5-4.0 Crimps Round Barrel Contacts, Pins or Sockets Handy tool for Harley-Davidson & Caterpillar Mechanics Built in locator. Fasteners & Tools (2000) is your one-stop shop for the best fasteners, power tools, hand tools, air tools and safety supplies! Power Tools Bosch Tools Bosch Drivers, Drill Driver, Metal Shear Bosch Drill/Driver, Impact Driver, Rotary Hammer Bosch Circular. A 1/8 transfer punch was held against the top of the mounting plate at the desired level and used to mark the center of the hole for the 1/8 pin. The hole was drilled slightly under size then opened part way through to 1/8 (from the front side). Two pins are needed, one on each side. A guide is needed on the grinder rest, perpendicular to the side of the wheel and far enough out to allow the jig's backplate to pass so the bit can contact the side of the wheel. When using the left side of the wheel it may be helpful to rotate the toolholder so its slot is on the right side. Cleeve sharpens threading bits with the point on the left so they can thread closer to a shoulder, something I didn't think through when sharpening my first threading bit so the point on mine was centered.. The natural thing is to round the end of the bit for the full height of the 6. The tip's bottom relief is about 2. This is far more relief than needed, causing the tip of the tool to be weak and prone to break. To improve tool life, round or flatten the end with 8. Note how the insert is held at an angle; this angle is what prevented me from using this bar for threading prior to building Cleeve's jig. This bar uses the small HSS inserts, only 1. Grinding on the Side of the Wheel - Use Caution. For safety reasons, grinding on the side of the wheel is not generally recommended with bench grinders - the wheel isn't meant for this although Cleeve shows it in his book. Another method I use is to touch the blank to the side of the wheel to produce a small area that serves as a guide for the major grinding. Resharpening threading bits with the jig is quick and removes little material because the jig reproduces the angle accurately. However, when the side of the wheel eventually becomes loaded with metal, realize that refreshing would thin the wheel and reduce its strength, possibly making further use hazardous. Often, when attempting to re- sharpen a bit we get the angle slightly wrong and end up having to grind more to compensate or recover. Using the jig allows setting it up by touching it to the non- moving wheel, tweaking the angle to get it just right before committing to removal of HSS. This jig can accommodate most lathe bits with only minor contortions if you use a grinder rather than the disk sander shown above - - a grinder adds some freedom by allowing use of the circumference as well as the sides (see caution above) of the wheel. I found the jig worked well in making dovetail cutters for my shaper. The nice part is the tools look professional (no facets) and they worked first time with no trial and error or fussing to get the angles right. The bolts that hold the square bits in place are longer to accommodate the 1/4. And, the corners of the mounting plate have been removed to increase clearance for the grinding wheel. Making the support plate and the toolholder narrower would improve clearance for the grinding wheel even more. These changes aren't needed for threading bits but add flexibility to accommodate sharpening other types of bits. Not the last word on threading, just what works for me. Threading itself isn't difficult but it requires considerable concentration and attention to detail, especially while cutting your first few threads. I avoided threading for some time after getting the 7x. I built Cleeve's jig to sharpen threading bits more easily (a big help), added DRO's to the lathe (helpful for setting the infeed), and most recently built a retracting toolholder for threading (to avoid winding the cross slide in and out for each pass). Although I still recall my first threading attempt and being doubtful the cutter would exactly retrace the thread each pass, I have now done enough threading that I am more confident it will follow the same path each time : -)First, I try to choose a TPI divisible by 4 because it simplifies single point threading operations by allowing use of any (odd) number on the thread dial for sync. When given a choice I choose 3. TPI and use 6- 3. I commonly use is 1/4- 2. When installing the gears ensure there is a bit of clearance - some use a strip of paper in the gears to set clearance - else the gears can bind slightly which will cause the thread to be erratic (a so- called drunken thread). The gears should turn easily with no binding using the gear on the end of the leadscrew as a knob. Once the change gears are set up and spin freely, you can engage them when needed (lathe not spinning, of course) using the handle at the rear of the headstock. The major diameter of the area to be threaded is found in the standard charts; I use charts printed from the LMS site, the chart for imperial lists major and minor diameters while the metric chart requires some calculation. Calculate the thread depth: (major diameter - minor diameter)/2 ; this is the amount the CS will be advanced. Standard threads are cut with a tool having a 6. Tools sharpened in the jig are aligned properly if the side of the tool blank is parallel to the chuck - so a fishtail tool isn't needed, just use a parallel between the face of the chuck and the cutter body. Assuming you intend to cut an imperial thread whose TPI is divisible by 4 and having followed the above to set things up, you're ready to start. Apply cutting oil to the area to be threaded, as needed, throughout the process. Engage the drive to the leadscrew and verify that the carriage moves toward the headstock when the half nuts are engaged and the spindle is turned. Position the compound so the bit is over the CS (not extended out to the left since this can cause chatter). Bring the bit up to just touch the OD of the section to be threaded and set the CS dial to zero. Move the carriage to the right beyond the work until the threading dial is on any digit and engage the half nuts. Advance the CS by about 2 thou and use the handwheel to rotate the spindle and scribe a thread onto the work for at least several turns. Infeed starts at 7 to 1. A little more or less than half will work fine too.)Use the handwheel to turn the spindle and cut the thread, stopping at the desired end point. An alternative is to stop the single point threading process before arriving at the target depth and use a die to complete the threading process. Then clean up as described above. If your threading bit's point was sized for more TPI than the thread being cut, the V will be too narrow when you arrive at the target depth; advance the compound a couple thou and make another pass without changing the infeed - - repeat as necessary until the test nut fits. Note that if the compound is set at 2. Single point threads are concentric with the work (assuming the work was mounted concentrically). Cutting threads to near finished depth and then completing with a die works well - much easier on the die and requires much less torque. As usual when threading, use plenty of lubricant. If the TPI to be cut isn't divisible by 4 then you can choose the numbers on which to engage the half nuts using information from the manual. Metric threading differs from imperial because the half nuts remain engaged when cutting metric threads and the carriage is returned by turning the spindle backwards. The change gears supplied with the 1. TPI leadscrew lathe provide close approximations for the common metric threads; these approximations are close enough that the error shouldn't affect the fit to commercial metric fasteners - but check the fit before making several identical parts, just in case. A Carriage Auto- Stop for the Minilathe. Click to Enlarge. I looked for a minilathe mechanical auto- stop but didn't find one that triggered so the stop point would be reasonably repeatable. Repeatability is needed when the auto- stop will be used for threading, my main use for it. This auto- stop works only for imperial threads while the more complex dog clutch auto- stop provides automatic thread pickup for imperial and metric threads. It uses two purpose made springs, one in the trigger mechanism and another on the half- nut shaft's collar. The mechanism cocks when the half- nuts are engaged by pressing the normal lever; the half- nuts disengage automatically when the actuating rod contacts the mechanical stop, activating the trigger. All of the round material and spring wire are from scrap line printers. Two 1/4. These standoffs have a 1/4. The rectangular block is drilled so a pin with a 6- 3. The trigger pivot is simply a round with two flats milled 9. Each arm has a spigot turned on the end, then pressed into a hole drilled in the center of the flat. The flat on the other arm contains the sear, made from drill rod and hardened. A flat was milled and a hole was D/T 1. The round was threaded into this and marked so the flat could be oriented properly; it was cut to length and the flat milled to the center. I filed the thin edge down to allow proper contact. This improved operation and made the gib on these dovetails easier to adjust. Lathe Retractable Tool Bit Holder. Lathe Retractable Tool Bit Holder. Last updated on Saturday, September 1. AM. Eastern US Time Zone. HOMERetracting Tool Bit Animation. Exploded Views. Modular Tool Holder, Bronze Camshaft with Aluminum. Knob, Assembled & Mounted Holder. An AXA mounted retractable tool bit holder allows me to quickly pull the cutter. Usedwith the updated variable- speed DC. The Hardinge HLV- H has. Exploded views. The grooved camshaft. Left to right: Knob with bronze camshaft, modular tool bit. Ball- bearing. detent for the levered knob. The steel tool. holder is modular so different plates can be designed to hold many different bit. A solid carbide bit is shown. Two, 1. 0- 2. 4. full dog- pointsetscrews. Five, 8- 3. 2 bolts secure the plate to the base. The two tool bit setscrews are counter bored. An aluminum prototype camshaft was made to evaluate the design. Cutting the. bronze shaft with a cam on the end. The part was offset 0. This large part cutoff was easy now that I. DC motor drive. It was quick to determine the detent locations. I assembled. it, moved the knob through its range several times, then disassembled it, punched the ends of the mark & drilled. Produces a. clean, positive click. The steel clamping bar is held on using four, 1.
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